Moussaka is the crown jewel of Greek baking — layers of seasoned ground meat, roasted eggplant, and a creamy topping baked until bubbling, golden, and perfumed with cinnamon and allspice.
Preheat oven to 400F (200C). Arrange eggplant on baking sheets, brush with oil, season. Roast 20 minutes until golden and softened. Set aside.
Brown meat in a large pan over high heat. Add onion and garlic; cook 5 minutes. Add tomatoes, wine, cinnamon, allspice, and oregano. Simmer 20 minutes until thick. Season.
Bechamel: blend steamed cauliflower, cream, and cream cheese until silky smooth. Beat in eggs and half the cheese. Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper.
Assembly: Layer half the eggplant in a large baking dish. Pour all the meat sauce over. Layer remaining eggplant on top. Pour bechamel over everything. Scatter remaining cheese on top.
Bake 35-40 minutes until deeply golden on top and bubbling at the edges. Rest 20 minutes before cutting — this is essential.